You can no longer spot a fake through the shop window
Twenty years ago a copy gave itself away at first glance. Today a good replica fools even an experienced eye, so checking is not about one sign but about all of them together.
Read on not as a reason for paranoia, but as a way to ask the right questions. A seller with nothing to hide will answer all of them calmly.
1odditycoincidence
Happens to any genuine piece: a lost receipt, a scuff, an unusual shade in poor light.
2odditieslook closer
Go through the other steps more carefully and ask the seller direct questions.
3odditiesdon’t buy
Coincidences don’t line up like that. Better to leave without the piece than with a fake.
8 steps · in order
Go through the piece step by step
Open any card for details and signs. Tick off what you’ve checked: the page is handy to keep open at the market, and your ticks are saved.
Checked 0 of 8
01Common sense
Start with the price
Second-hand holds at 30–50% of retail. At a tenth of the price, the question isn’t “is it fake” but why you’d believe it.
Price scale →
The most reliable signal isn’t the stitching or the hardware, it’s common sense.
30–50%
of the retail price: the usual level for a second-hand piece in good condition.
50–100%+
rare and sought-after models. Sometimes more than retail itself, and that’s normal.
under 10%
a stop signal. A two-thousand bag doesn’t sell for a hundred and fifty.
There are exceptions: an inheritance, an urgent move, someone who doesn’t know what the piece is worth. But then the story has an explanation, and the seller will tell it.
02The set
Documents and completeness
Receipt, card, box, dust bag, tags. Missing ones aren’t a verdict; having them is a strong argument.
6-point checklist →
Ask for everything that might exist:
a receipt or proof of purchase
an authenticity card, if the brand issues them
the original box
a dust bag (the fabric pouch)
tags, spare buttons, an extra strap
service documents, if the piece was repaired at a boutique
Missing documents don’t mean a fake. Receipts get lost, boxes get thrown out in a move, gifts arrive without papers. But having the documents is a strong argument, and it affects the price.
Beware the reverse: authenticity cards and boxes are faked too. A piece of paper on its own isn’t proof; it’s one detail among many.
03The piece itself
Stitching and construction
This is where fakes give themselves away most often: handwork is the most expensive part.
5 signs →
Handwork and quality machine work are the most expensive part of production, so they’re the first place to cut costs.
SignNormalWarning sign
Evenness
normalStitches of equal length, the seam runs straight
warningWaves, sagging, uneven stitch length
Density
normalSmall, close stitches
warningSparse, large stitching
Symmetry
normalPockets, straps and flaps match left and right
warningThe sides visibly differ
Threads
normalNone loose on a new piece; on a worn one, away from the main seams
warningLoose on the main seams
Thread colour
normalExactly matches the material
warningA “roughly similar” shade
04The piece itself
Hardware
Metal is expensive, so it’s the first thing to be cut. Weight, engraving, how the zip runs.
4 signs →
Hold the hardware in your hand: the genuine thing feels heavy and solid.
normalEven on a new piece; on a worn one, wear at the edges and contact points
warningSpots and peeling in random places
05The piece itself
Logos and embossing
A brand’s typeface doesn’t change for decades. Compare it with the photos on the official website.
4 signs →
Open the brand’s website on your phone and compare the lettering letter by letter. It takes a minute.
SignNormalWarning sign
Typeface
normalMatches the photos on the brand’s website: letter spacing, stroke weight, serifs
warningLetters wider or narrower, a different shape
Placement
normalWhere the brand puts it on this model
warningShifted, “somewhere around there”
Embossing depth
normalEven across the whole lettering
warningOne letter pressed deeper than the rest
Monogram
normalThe pattern continues across seams, symmetrical to the centre
warningThe pattern breaks at a seam or is offset
06The piece itself
Material and smell
Leather smells of leather, not chemicals. And always check the lining: that’s where costs are cut most often.
4 signs →
Linings are faked most readily, on the assumption that nobody looks there. Always look.
SignNormalWarning sign
Leather
normalSmells of leather
warningA sharp chemical or plastic smell
Texture
normalIrregular grain, pores of different sizes
warningA perfectly uniform repeating pattern
Lining
normalDense material, neat seams, sharp logos
warningThin fabric, sloppy seams, blurred logos
Fabric
normalDense weave, even nap
warningPilling on a new piece, see-through patches
07Markings
Serial number and code
The code format should match the year of production. Fakes often use a format from the wrong period.
How to check →
Many brands mark their pieces: a serial number, a date code, a production code. Where it sits depends on the brand: on an inside pocket, on a separate label, stamped on a metal plate.
Look up by brand name what its marking looks like and where it sits on this model.
Check that the code format matches the year of production: brands have changed their marking systems.
Compare with photos on collectors’ forums.
Important: some brands have no serial numbers at all, and since 2021 some have switched to built-in chips instead of codes. A missing number isn’t a verdict, but having one gives you an extra lead.
08The conversation
What to ask the seller
Five questions that cost nothing. What matters is not only what they answer, but how.
Conversation script →
Questions that cost nothing but clarify a lot:
Where and when was the piece bought?
Do you still have the receipt, box, card?
Why are you selling?
Has it been worn, how often, are there any defects?
Has it been repaired or dry-cleaned?
Someone who bought the piece themselves remembers the circumstances. Evasiveness and irritation at simple questions are information in themselves.
Ask for photos of the details: lining, labels, number, hardware close up. Refusing to send them is the clearest signal of all.
09 · Appraisal
Where to go if doubts remain
Four routes. They differ in how much weight the answer carries, what it costs and how fast you get it.
strong / costly / fastweak / cheaper / slower
01
The brand’s boutique
They usually don’t give written opinions; it’s brand policy. But the service department may refuse a repair or cleaning if the piece isn’t theirs.
Weight of proof
Cost
Speed
When to goThe piece is expensive and you’re going to the boutique anyway: you’ll get an indirect answer for free.
02
Authentication services
Independent services check the piece from photos or in person and issue a written opinion.
Weight of proof
Cost
Speed
When to goYou need a document in hand, for resale or for peace of mind. From a few dozen CHF, from hours to a couple of days.
03
Pawnshops and auction houses
Appraisers who work with luxury can tell fakes apart; it’s their profession. You’ll also learn the real market price.
Weight of proof
Cost
Speed
When to goYou want to know not only whether it’s genuine, but what it’s really worth. You need to visit with the piece.
04
Consumer associations
In Switzerland there are organisations that advise on purchases and consumer rights.
Weight of proof
Cost
Speed
When to goThe deal has already happened and turned out to be disputed: they’ll tell you what to do next.
10 · Law
The legal side
Three facts worth knowing before you buy or list anything.
01 · Selling
Prohibited
In Switzerland, selling counterfeit goods is prohibited. It infringes trademark rights, regardless of who is selling and in what quantity.
02 · Wording
No loophole
Adding “replica” or “in the style of the brand” doesn’t remove liability. An honest description doesn’t make the sale legal.
03 · Import
Seizure
Customs may seize fakes, including ones bought on holiday for personal use.
✕
That’s why replicas are never listed on our market, under any conditions and in any wording.
The main rule
If in doubt, don’t buy
The market offers something no chat can: take the piece in your hands, look at it in daylight, ask the owner questions in person and walk away if something doesn’t add up. No obligations, no blind transfers.